The Special Sauce:
- SAE 1045 Solid Steel Forged Housing: This is unequivocally the best carbon alloy steel for this application.
- CNC Machined Housing: Make our parts and bearings dimensionally perfect, eliminating any die wear issues.
- SAE 4140 hot forged Chromoly Ball Studs: For the strongest possible metallurgy.
- Induction Heat Treated Ball Studs: Provides a very precise heat treatment to the exact depth and location we want it.
- Rolled Threads: Are made by pressing the shape of the threads into the ball stud instead of cutting. This strengthens the threads instead of weakening them and allows for easy movement of hardware. This ain't no Ikea furniture!
- Step Threads: allows for very easy movement of hardware on install and superior holding when torqued (installer choice).
- Rugged Metal to Metal Bearing
- CR Rubber Boots: The most durable material for undercar applications. Resistant to deterioration from road level ozone, oil/gas/engine fluids and extreme heat or cold
- Accordion Boot: Ideal for high-articulation components, more flexibility means longer life.
- E-Coat Finish: Extremely durable. Double coated. Threads coated as well. Rugged look.
- Grade 8 - Class 10.9 Hardware: Superior tensile strength.
- Castle Nut: Industry standard where high vibration loads occur.
- E-Coat Finish: Durable e-coat treatment
- 1.5" DOM SAE 1020 Tube: Heavy walled steel tubing provides the tightest most robust steering on the market
- Pre threaded Zerk Housing: If you have ever installed a MOOG Ball Joint without a pre-threaded zerk fitting you will understand what a simple but great feature this is. Another installer fav.
- Greaseable: Because it should be.
- Gull Winged Grease Grooves: Allows for improved lubrication disbursement around the ball stud.
- Ninja Washers (tm): An APEX exclusive is our Ninja Washer which is a unique method of securing the lock nut to the tube, erasing the need for lightly built adjusting tubes with ugly pinch clamps. And who doesn't want a ninja on their front end.
- Minimum Engagement Mark on Threads: If this mark in the thread of the drag link is showing it means you are beyond the safe engagement of threads into the adjusting sleeve. You may be lifted too high and need to switch to a flip kit or you may need to equal out the adjusting sleeve between the two ends.